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View Full Version : Bodysurfing, H, and xmas


Duckfeet
12-13-2006, 03:45 PM
I'm all over the place at times, get on here, I'm all ready to move to England, but I know it won't happen now, maybe never, I got constraints, like anybody. But I got help on here, Nick gave me some scoop on what I needed to know, how to research it better. Helped out a bro....treated my question seriously, as I was embarassed I even asked. So much stands between me, and any kind of legal use of DOC...

Next I'm all set to trot down to at least Rosarito for a few weeks, but my ninety year old stepdad ain't doing well, Mom's freakin', they want him on some kind of takehome dyalisis, whatever, and so Mom is wanting me to act like a grownup, go up there, but it's not me, not really, I just want to flee. But dv and some others really gave me some good info on Mexico, if or when I go, it got me hopeful, but it looks like maybe I'll have to do family thing, and I don't like it, whine a lot about it. Never learn, not me...don't wanna learn...don't wanna be like "normal decent society." I think often that being a junky isn't a disease, it's a philosophical stance, albeit a grim and maybe indefensable one. We pays we pays and we pays some more

but I got a good life here, really, I live where I can see the Pacific Ocean from my doorstep, got a pension from the military, everything is o.k...

But not really, w/me after periods of time there is only one thing that will get me right. Everything else sometimes is just pissing into the wind.

So this friend decides to take a chance, and help me out. Made me happy in that spot only a hardnosed old junky knows, made that spot "well" one more time...

Now I look out, we got *huge* waves (I know there's another bodysurfer on here), ten to eighteen foot faces. I got on my Birdwell trunks, got on my Excel full wetsuit, and gonna go get my old Voit xlarge *Duckfeet* fins w/leashes, and go catch some nice lefts near the pier, gonna catch the big outgoing riptide by the pier out w/some kid who calls me grandpa, and we'll be forgetting everything in the power and craziness of big pacific swell.

So my beautiful cousin helped me out today, and for at least a short while I'll be happy all the kinds of ways a boy like can be happy. Got a bag of Doritos for tomorrow too, so I'm *set!*...

Duckfeet
kinda crazy and happy
for a change

slugbone
12-13-2006, 03:50 PM
being a junky isn't a disease, it's a philosophical stance

i totally fucking agree. been wanting to learn to surf or bodysurf but i need to get the balls to get up and go. i'm bout an hour from oregon coast Cannon Beach.

Curio
12-13-2006, 04:15 PM
I used to bodysurf on the Oregon coast...

my friend and I would get a wild notion and put on our bikinis,
throw on clothes over the top...take off in the car with fog, clouds,
maybe rain, temp. around 45-50 degrees...drive for an hour and a half,
jump out and strip down and run straight into the surf...

"wetsuits are for wimps" we'd say....

course we were also 18-20 yrs then...

stuff like that freakin HURTS a body now...

I remember my legs getting so cold they seized up
when I was still jogging out of the water...about 14" deep,
fell flat on my face...my legs simply STOPPED,
and I went down like a rock.:o

Cybershark
12-13-2006, 04:37 PM
Hey Slugbone! I am another one for the Great Northest. Cannon Beach is so very beautiful but the water is cold as hell. LOL ;)

I am a wimp, I love Florida and Hawaii's waters much better for body surfing. We even nude surfed in Maui. Was fun as hell!

sodamnstrong
12-13-2006, 04:40 PM
I'm all over the place at times, get on here, I'm all ready to move to England, but I know it won't happen now, maybe never, I got constraints, like anybody. But I got help on here, Nick gave me some scoop on what I needed to know, how to research it better. Helped out a bro....treated my question seriously, as I was embarassed I even asked. So much stands between me, and any kind of legal use of DOC...

Next I'm all set to trot down to at least Rosarito for a few weeks, but my ninety year old stepdad ain't doing well, Mom's freakin', they want him on some kind of takehome dyalisis, whatever, and so Mom is wanting me to act like a grownup, go up there, but it's not me, not really, I just want to flee. But dv and some others really gave me some good info on Mexico, if or when I go, it got me hopeful, but it looks like maybe I'll have to do family thing, and I don't like it, whine a lot about it. Never learn, not me...don't wanna learn...don't wanna be like "normal decent society." I think often that being a junky isn't a disease, it's a philosophical stance, albeit a grim and maybe indefensable one. We pays we pays and we pays some more

but I got a good life here, really, I live where I can see the Pacific Ocean from my doorstep, got a pension from the military, everything is o.k...

But not really, w/me after periods of time there is only one thing that will get me right. Everything else sometimes is just pissing into the wind.

So this friend decides to take a chance, and help me out. Made me happy in that spot only a hardnosed old junky knows, made that spot "well" one more time...

Now I look out, we got *huge* waves (I know there's another bodysurfer on here), ten to eighteen foot faces. I got on my Birdwell trunks, got on my Excel full wetsuit, and gonna go get my old Voit xlarge *Duckfeet* fins w/leashes, and go catch some nice lefts near the pier, gonna catch the big outgoing riptide by the pier out w/some kid who calls me grandpa, and we'll be forgetting everything in the power and craziness of big pacific swell.

So my beautiful cousin helped me out today, and for at least a short while I'll be happy all the kinds of ways a boy like can be happy. Got a bag of Doritos for tomorrow too, so I'm *set!*...

Duckfeet
kinda crazy and happy
for a change
hey duckfeet. I love to surf. i've been to the west coast a few times but live back east. I dont bodysurf but if i did I would go to "The Wedge"!!! Haaaaaaaaaaa! Dont kill yourself. Ive seen the wedge break 15 feet right on the beach. body surfers, boogie boarders love it! Anyway, have fun out there. Sounds like fun, that is, except for the tar. you got the waves but we got the dope!

red26
12-13-2006, 04:41 PM
HAHA! Wetsuits are for wimps!?! When I was framing houses my boss always said "nailguns are for pussies". I'm glad I got to learn a traditional form of the trade but MAN, sometimes lookin at the crew nextdoor with the guns... it was frustrating sometimes.

DF I'm glad your getting out there even if I'm jelous. I love those sets that come in really fast. You feel like you just got shot out of a gun. Too sweet.:D

Ragdoll
12-14-2006, 04:03 PM
http://clicksmilies.com/s1106/musik/music-smiley-017.gif "Catch a wave and you're sittin' on top of the world...."

AWESOME, Dee!

Woohoo - and have a BLAST!!!!

About the stepdad and your mom...it's tough, when the old folks are in poor health and all that. I was there, with both parents.... hard to say, but while I do miss my folks, miss even my crazy Ma and my SOB Pa...I am grateful every day that they left this earth while I was still young enough to have a life of my own. But I spent a great lot of my 30's caring for my parents in their ill states of health. It's a cold reality. I dread the day my own kids have to take care of me, but...I didn't make the world; it is how it is.

But when all is said and done, DUDE! -there ain't NUTHIN' like our big blue Pacific Ocean!

nick
12-14-2006, 04:22 PM
Don't give up on the dream of legal H yet bro.I can't make any promises because no one has said yes,but no one has said no,so it may not be out of the question.In fact,no news is actually good news.
I'll let you know as soon as I know.Enjoy the surf.

Flagg
12-14-2006, 04:23 PM
Cool! You got a Shawshank Redemption ending to your story, at least. If you're in Old Mexico (which I gathered from your post) then I believe you don't have to worry about it as long as you're carrying a small amount of dope.

As for the surfing, well, I like it 'cuz Charlie don't surf (another movie reference ... ) but I wouldn't mix the two euphoric activities. Be careful!

AWOL
12-14-2006, 05:23 PM
Ahhhhhh, now I get the duckfeet thing ;) Makes sense. Con cuidado senior pato, tu sabes como es.

Duckfeet
12-15-2006, 01:40 AM
Don't give up on the dream of legal H yet bro.I can't make any promises because no one has said yes,but no one has said no,so it may not be out of the question.In fact,no news is actually good news.
I'll let you know as soon as I know.Enjoy the surf.

Thanks Nick. I know that. I'm just sort of idling, next few months, trying to keep my eye on that, and I know you've probably been following that NAOMI thing too. It seems to me there is at least a little room for optimism in Vancouver. If they can do what I hope they'll do, and see the inhumanity of forcing these patients back onto methadone maintenance, now that they are completing their year on diamorphine... then the door will be opened to the future. In any other medical trial that was successful, they would allow the patients to continue on the drug that was effective...and once that can happen...it would hard not to get hopeful... According to my information--and I dont' know if this is also true in England--you have to have lived with a certain mileage of the clinic for six months to be elgible for diamorphine maint...but we'll see...

I keep hope alive, without getting crazy about it. It seems like so much depends on politics, right?

Thankyou though, from day one on here, you have been encouraging, and in the middle of your own detox, when I know just how grim the world can look....

Duckfeet
12-15-2006, 01:42 AM
Ahhhhhh, now I get the duckfeet thing ;) Makes sense. Con cuidado senior pato, tu sabes como es.

Yup, actually in really big surf I like UDT fins, but most days, it's duckfeet.

Y trato de cuidarme, gracias!

Duckfeet
12-15-2006, 01:51 AM
hey duckfeet. I love to surf. i've been to the west coast a few times but live back east. I dont bodysurf but if i did I would go to "The Wedge"!!! Haaaaaaaaaaa! Dont kill yourself. Ive seen the wedge break 15 feet right on the beach. body surfers, boogie boarders love it! Anyway, have fun out there. Sounds like fun, that is, except for the tar. you got the waves but we got the dope!

I've bodysurfed the Wedge, but I bounced off the wall under the wave...not what the real hotrods consider a Wedge hand...that's our everest...that def the place, in the summer on big lefts. Down here it's Boomer, up north a few miles...but we're up there, on the winter swells--right now--we get big. I'd say we're no.3, after those two, for size and gnarleyness...we're real proud of ourselves, and our beach...and lifeguards and good watermen come here in winter, to slide down these big old faces. I was on t.v. last year, on really big day. They interviewed me on Fox6 and I talked a lot of shit...then I swam out on big day....my Mom saw me and freaked, she's a little old lady :) Everything else I'm a big sissy, but I can bodysurf!

I like it because if it's the one thing i got, that is physical, that makes me proud. I'm really crappy athlete, everything else. It's only real reason I came out here. Pacific Ocean, love it. But if it weren't for that, I'd much rather live up north, like that pacific northwest...but less of the year can u get'em..

I had sailboat I used to live on, when I first came out here...a Pearson Triton, full keel, for any of u sailors...lived out by Star of India on a mooring hook, here in the bay, prettiest view in San Diego...love that ocean...I'm all right out there...it's on land i get in trouble...

flipside
12-15-2006, 01:56 AM
^^ That sounds so beautiful DF, I love the ocean, miss being able to walk the shore even in the winter., I would go for the weekend just to be close to the ocean

You Lucky Duck you;) LOL! It has always been a dream of mine to live on a boat. Mabey one day when the kids grow up and are out on their own...Dreams are a good thing..:)

Duckfeet
12-15-2006, 01:58 AM
http://clicksmilies.com/s1106/musik/music-smiley-017.gif "Catch a wave and you're sittin' on top of the world...."

AWESOME, Dee!

Woohoo - and have a BLAST!!!!

About the stepdad and your mom...it's tough, when the old folks are in poor health and all that. I was there, with both parents.... hard to say, but while I do miss my folks, miss even my crazy Ma and my SOB Pa...I am grateful every day that they left this earth while I was still young enough to have a life of my own. But I spent a great lot of my 30's caring for my parents in their ill states of health. It's a cold reality. I dread the day my own kids have to take care of me, but...I didn't make the world; it is how it is.

But when all is said and done, DUDE! -there ain't NUTHIN' like our big blue Pacific Ocean!

Thanks: that's the tough part. But I don't do that much. They live by themselves up in Oceanside, and take care of themselves all right. Trouble is, yeah, I've tried to do what I could. But I'd rather my mom might cry a little if i moved elsewhere...but if my opiate chasing course continues--and it will--and I pick up another charge out here in Cali, they now have mandatory sentencing for third offenders, and mom would cry a lot more if she had to once again go see me in prison on sundays. I'd rather she got sentimental about me being further away, but doing o.k., rather than know that I'll never see freedom again. For all it's professed liberal values, California has harsh 3 strikes law...and many ex-cons are doing essentially "life in prison" on lesser charges, because of this popular law. And I'd be a 3-striker, no way around it...and my sis and her family are much more "there" for my mom, and more family oriented, than me...

I just want to be somewhere where the deck is not so stacked against me, if I can. In march I'll probably move somewhere...I'll have my money freed and all my loose ends tied up then...

PRIZEFIGHTERINFERNO
12-15-2006, 01:58 AM
you gotta love the SoCal waves....wooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhooo ooooooooooooooooooo
the ocean rocks out here
ive lived on the east coast up north and down south.......northern california etc....all beach oriented places......but i like socalifornia the best.
rock on duckfeet

Duckfeet
12-15-2006, 02:14 AM
^^ That sounds so beautiful DF, I love the ocean, miss being able to walk the shore even in the winter., I would go for the weekend just o be close to the ocean

You lLcky Duck you;) LOL! It has always been a dream of mine to live on a boat. Mabey one day when the kids grow up and are out on their own...Dreams are a good thing..:)

You know I always got room for you Flip out here. You don't come out, I'm coming out there to get u anyway!...of course *last* time I thought I was a real hotshot in Wisconsin, I ended up for a month on the nutward up at the V.A. hospital in Tomah haha, just so you know I'm honest, but not too tightly wrapped LOL...just promise you'll get back on opiophile, and tell everybody what a cool character I was in real life...not the confused lamebrain I really am...I'd *pay* you!

I love boats too, but the marina rates here are huge--and wait is forever--which is why I got rid of boat, after I'd been out here a while. It's a long story, but I didn't have my own mooring hook...I had to keep moving around and use someone else's hook...before I had boat in Corpus Christi TX, which was a lot cheaper and more avaiable...and up at Johnny's Marina up on Thea Foss waterway up in Tacoma, and before that up on Lake Union in Seattle at the Seacraft yacht sales marina...*that's* pretty sailing up there. I went over to Gig Harbor. those islands up there, it was windy, but I brought boat down from Lake Union, it was some of prettiest sailing I'd ever done...first time I'd ever gone thru locks, and singlehanded her down, too! I did ding her up a little in the locks, and she was a beautiful sloop, too, made up there on Orcas Island, I think the name is. All teac and mahogany cabin, on a fibreglass hull...27 footer.

From here, in hindsight I probably should have moved this boat down to Ensenada, but at time it didn't seem like good idea. Anyway, I'm boatless now, just showing off, lucky to walk without crashing into shit LOL...

flipside
12-15-2006, 02:23 AM
You are so sweet DF,, if you can handle having the little ones around I may come visit in a few , once meds and other things have been straightened out. Cali is one of the few states I have not had the pleasure of visiting yet.

Few years back rented an RV and took the kids cross country but turned back before we hit the Cali border. Always regretted that. But ended up staying a lot longer in Arizona and New Mexico both of which I enjoyed immensly as did the kids.

Thinking about it,, roaming around the country in an RV for a few years sound like another good plan for the future.

Course I'd have to get the meds etc straightened out, and my little one at least out of 6 th grade. She's smart as a whip and has no problem with the book learning ( is in the Midwest Academic Talent search this year..scholarship $$ for college if she wins) I've home schooled her before and guess I could do it with the littlle one too. Could be a great way to spend a few years with the kids while I can still travel for the most part. Repeat..dreams are good :) ( now if health permits...:rolleyes: )

Duckfeet
12-15-2006, 08:36 PM
You are so sweet DF,, if you can handle having the little ones around I may come visit in a few , once meds and other things have been straightened out. Cali is one of the few states I have not had the pleasure of visiting yet.

Few years back rented an RV and took the kids cross country but turned back before we hit the Cali border. Always regretted that. But ended up staying a lot longer in Arizona and New Mexico both of which I enjoyed immensly as did the kids.

Thinking about it,, roaming around the country in an RV for a few years sound like another good plan for the future.

Course I'd have to get the meds etc straightened out, and my little one at least out of 6 th grade. She's smart as a whip and has no problem with the book learning ( is in the Midwest Academic Talent search this year..scholarship $$ for college if she wins) I've home schooled her before and guess I could do it with the littlle one too. Could be a great way to spend a few years with the kids while I can still travel for the most part. Repeat..dreams are good :) ( now if health permits...:rolleyes: )

sounds good, Flip...you seem to brighten up whatever life your around, and for all the day to day sunshine out here, my morose junky head sometimes doesn't absorb it. I have now a teeny cottage right by beach, and mi casa su casa, as Fred Sanford used to say ;-)

I find that what with overpopulation and stuff, that the really beautiful part of Calif is now up north, but that's just my quest for elbowroom. Problem with moving up north is then my desire for daily swimming gets seriously challenged. I'm out every day, but it takes a full wetsuit to stay out long enough to have fun. I can skin it with the best of'em...it's after that first half hour where slight hypothermia starts to kick in that I need a suit. I think if I were as adventurous and brave as I claim I am, I'd look south of the border. I like Rosarito...but again, with me it's always the desire to not go without serious opiates that dictates so much of what I do. And Mexico has *different* problems in that area. There's always a way.

I guess like most people I"m just trying to get thru these stupid holidays free and reasonably content....I always get more and more grouchy until New years, then I get better again for about eleven months. The *unmentionable* thing thing in my family is that four years ago my real dad took his life out in Winston-Salem, either on Christmas day, or day before, and my cousin found him Christmas day. I liked old Pop crazy drunk though he was, but in my family we never talk about this, and it is elephant in room...He was happy drunk with fourth wife down in Guatemala and his side of family talked him into coming back to U.S. (where he'd be safe) and after a couple of years he'd had enough of being alone old and sick and checked out. This is no country for real old men....

AWOL
12-15-2006, 08:43 PM
Yer makin me (even more so) want to move back down castellano way amigo.

Duckfeet
12-15-2006, 09:11 PM
Yer makin me (even more so) want to move back down castellano way amigo.

Yep, it's funny. I was down on berm at beach, before dark, looking at waves, talking to young pal of mine, and my mom called telling me she had just talked to my kid brother, who had flown down to Mendoza, Argentina for holidays, and to show his 2year old boy to all the inlaws. First time in about thirty years he's been down there, and I haven't been to Mendoza since 68-69 whenever it was I came back to U.S. My brother married an Argentine woman, a few years ago, just coincidentally from mendoza where we had lived all those years ago. so my brother just took about nine hr flight to Buenos Aires, then they all flew to mendoza where he'll spend next month. I was going to fly with them, but finally sanity--I was on methadone maint--I figured I didn't need to be down there fighting this shitbird and kicking too, even subs now have me too crazy for something that nice...so I'm just hearing it all second hand. but anyway bro is down there. He's trying to find way to stay. He has small vets pension...but you know what it 's like without money down there, but a whole lot better place IMO to have a family. I haven't talked to him yet.

To me Argentina lives in that spot in me where pain can't get to. I remember over-amping on speedballs in Louisiana many years later, and laying on my back thinking of trees and trout streams down in southern Argentina when I was a kid full of dreams, so I wouldn't dial out up here. It's funny how you don't forget that shit...so cool, I'm glad for him.

Ragdoll
12-16-2006, 03:33 PM
Thanks: that's the tough part. But I don't do that much. They live by themselves up in Oceanside, and take care of themselves all right. Trouble is, yeah, I've tried to do what I could. But I'd rather my mom might cry a little if i moved elsewhere...but if my opiate chasing course continues--and it will--and I pick up another charge out here in Cali, they now have mandatory sentencing for third offenders, and mom would cry a lot more if she had to once again go see me in prison on sundays. I'd rather she got sentimental about me being further away, but doing o.k., rather than know that I'll never see freedom again. For all it's professed liberal values, California has harsh 3 strikes law...and many ex-cons are doing essentially "life in prison" on lesser charges, because of this popular law. And I'd be a 3-striker, no way around it...and my sis and her family are much more "there" for my mom, and more family oriented, than me...

I just want to be somewhere where the deck is not so stacked against me, if I can. In march I'll probably move somewhere...I'll have my money freed and all my loose ends tied up then...

I agree 100% about the "visiting on Sundays" thing, Dee. Any Ma would shed a few tears at her son living far away...but she can always dream of visiting, etc. But no Ma wants to see her boy go down on 3 strikes.

California reminds me of the Buddhist saying "Within everything is it's opposite."